Is St John’s Co-Cathedral Malta Worth It?

St John’s Co-Cathedral is one of the most popular things to see in Valletta, but with a €15 entrance fee and often a long queue outside, you might be wondering: is St John’s Co-Cathedral worth it?

I certainly did.

On my first day in Malta, we walked past St John’s Co-Cathedral several times. Each time there was a long line out the front, and I wasn’t keen to join it.

I was also put off by the entrance fee, especially after visiting so many incredible churches and cathedrals around Europe for free.

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Over the next week, I asked locals, other travellers and even my readers whether I should go. The answer was almost unanimous: yes.

And more than once I heard: “You have to see the floor!”

So, on our last morning in Malta, I pre-purchased tickets and arrived before the doors opened, ready to find out what all the fuss was about.

And yes, that floor is something else.

But there’s much more to St John’s Co-Cathedral than its extraordinary marble tombstones. There’s the lavish Baroque interior, the history of the Knights of St John and one of Caravaggio’s most important paintings.

Here’s what I found – and what you need to know before deciding whether to include St John’s Co-Cathedral in your Malta itinerary.

Why Is It Called a “Co-Cathedral”?

Before visiting, I’d never really come across the term “co-cathedral”, so I was curious about what it meant.

A cathedral is traditionally the seat of a bishop. In Malta, that was St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina, the island’s former capital.

In 1816, St John’s in Valletta was granted equal status by papal decree, meaning the two churches share cathedral status.

That’s why St John’s is a co-cathedral, rather than simply St John’s Cathedral.

About St John’s Co-Cathedral, Malta

St John’s Co-Cathedral was built between 1572 and 1577 as the church of the Order of the Knights of St John, who had made Malta their home after the Great Siege of 1565.

From the outside, it’s surprisingly plain. Step through the doors, though, and it’s a completely different story.

Almost every surface seems to be decorated. There are gilded walls, elaborate side chapels, a painted vaulted ceiling and an extraordinary marble floor made up of the tombs of hundreds of Knights of St John.

Then there’s the art. The cathedral is home to works by Caravaggio, including The Beheading of St John the Baptist, painted while he was living in Malta and the only known painting he signed.

It’s this combination of art, architecture and history that makes St John’s Co-Cathedral much more than simply another European church.

Visiting St Johns Co-Cathedral

St John’s Co-Cathedral is right in the centre of Valletta, so it’s easy to include while exploring the city, no matter which area you are staying in.

We stayed at the Alavits Hotel by ST Hotels in Gżira and caught the ferry across to Valletta.

If you’re travelling around Malta by bus, Valletta’s main bus terminal is just outside the city gates, making this an easy attraction to reach without a car too.

St John’s Co-Cathedral Tickets and Opening Hours

At the time of writing, entrance costs €15 for adults and €12 for seniors and students. Children under 12 can enter free when accompanied by an adult.

The Co-Cathedral is generally open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 4:45 pm, with last admission at 4 pm.

It is closed to visitors on Sundays and public holidays, although hours can change for religious services and special events, so check the official website before visiting.

Your ticket includes an audioguide with 20 stops covering the main areas of the cathedral. The cathedral recommends allowing around 1 hour 45 minutes for your visit.

Should You Book Tickets in Advance?

I would.

When we first walked past, there was a long queue outside – and this was in March, not during Malta’s busy summer season.

I eventually bought our tickets online and returned for opening time on our last morning. It didn’t take long for the cathedral to start filling up, so I’d aim to be there ready for the doors to open at 9 am.

Online tickets are valid for a single entry within seven days of your selected visit date, giving you some flexibility.

What to Wear to St John’s Co-Cathedral

St John’s is still a functioning church, so visitors are expected to dress appropriately. The cathedral recommends bringing a shawl or other covering if needed.

Stilettos and narrow heels aren’t allowed, helping to protect the marble floor.

There are no lockers, large backpacks need to be carried in your hand or on your front, and wheeled luggage isn’t permitted.

You can take photos inside, but don’t use flash.

Is the Belfry and Clock Tower Tour Worth Doing?

If it’s available during your visit, I recommend adding the Belfry and Clock Tower Tour.

We paid an extra €5 for the 20-minute tour, which took us first to the balcony overlooking the cathedral. You get a completely different view of the interior and a much closer look at the painted ceiling.

From there, we continued into the clock tower to see the historic clock mechanism and some of the bells.

There is a catch: you need to climb 99 steps each way on a narrow spiral staircase. It’s steep and enclosed, so I wouldn’t recommend the tour if you have mobility issues or are uncomfortable in tight spaces.

We booked the 10 am tour after arriving (it can only be booked in person once inside) when the cathedral opened at 9 am. That gave us about an hour to explore before meeting for the tour.

The Belfry and Clock Tower Tour has previously closed temporarily, so check whether it is operating when you visit.

If it is, I think the extra cost is worth it – particularly for the view down into the cathedral from above.

What to See Inside St John’s Co-Cathedral

I’m not going to describe every corner – part of the fun is discovering it for yourself.

But there are a few things you definitely shouldn’t miss.

The Marble Tombstone Floor

Remember all those people who told me, “You have to see the floor”?

They were right.

The floor is covered with hundreds of elaborate marble tombstones commemorating members of the Knights of St John.

Some are beautiful, some incredibly detailed and others quite macabre, with skeletons, skulls and other symbols of death worked into the designs.

It’s one of those rare places where you spend almost as much time looking down as looking up.

The Side Chapels and Ceiling

Make sure you look up too!

The richly decorated side chapels are associated with the different langues, or regional divisions, of the Knights of St John.

Above them is the huge barrel-vaulted ceiling, painted by Mattia Preti with scenes from the life of St John the Baptist.

There’s a lot to take in, which is where the audioguide is particularly useful. Rather than simply looking at another ornate chapel, you start to understand the stories behind what you’re seeing.

Caravaggio’s The Beheading of St John the Baptist

And then there’s Caravaggio.

The Oratory is home to The Beheading of St John the Baptist, painted in Malta in 1608. It’s enormous – more than five metres wide – and is the only known painting that Caravaggio signed.

His second work at St John’s, St Jerome Writing, can be seen in the Caravaggio Wing.

Since my visit, the Caravaggio experience has been expanded with the Caravaggio Wing, where you can learn more about the artist’s short and rather dramatic time in Malta. There’s also a 10-minute Meet Caravaggio presentation and digital displays that let you examine details of the paintings up close.

The Caravaggio Wing opened after my visit, so I haven’t experienced this newer part myself.

Would You Prefer a Guided Tour?

We visited St John’s Co-Cathedral independently and used the included audioguide, which worked well for us.

But if you prefer having a guide explain what you’re looking at, or you want to combine the cathedral with more of Valletta, there are some good options. All of these tours include entry to St John’s Co-Cathedral, so keep that in mind when comparing the price with visiting independently.

Valletta Guided Walking Tour with St John’s Co-Cathedral

This is a good option if you’re short on time and want to see more of Valletta rather than visiting the cathedral on its own. You’ll explore the city with a guide before visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral as part of the tour.

Check prices and availability for the Valletta Guided Walking Tour

Secrets of St John’s Co-Cathedral Guided Tour

If the cathedral itself is your main interest, this tour focuses specifically on St John’s, giving you more insight into its history, art and architecture.

It could be particularly worthwhile if you’d prefer a real guide to the included audioguide and want to understand more about what you’re seeing.

Check prices and availability for the St John’s Co-Cathedral Guided Tour

Valletta Resounds: The Caravaggio Experience

For something quite different, Valletta Resounds combines a visit to St John’s Co-Cathedral with Caravaggio, storytelling and live music.

This isn’t simply an alternative daytime tour of the cathedral. It’s more of a special experience and one I’d consider if you’re particularly interested in Caravaggio, Maltese history or music.

Check prices and availability for Valletta Resounds

Are There Any Downsides?

For me, the biggest downside was the crowds.

We arrived for opening time, and while it was relatively quiet when we first went inside, it didn’t stay that way for long.

And I visited in March. I can only imagine how busy it becomes during Malta’s peak summer months.

There may also be restoration work happening during your visit. When I was there, some areas were covered in scaffolding and a few artworks weren’t in their usual positions. In a building this old and elaborate, ongoing conservation is to be expected.

Then there’s the price.

When you’ve travelled around Europe and walked into countless beautiful churches for free, €15 to enter another one can feel expensive.

But St John’s Co-Cathedral isn’t really comparable to popping into a local church for ten minutes.

There’s a huge amount to see, the audioguide is included and you’re getting access to significant artworks, including the Caravaggios.

Once I’d been inside, the price felt much more reasonable.

So, Is St John’s Co-Cathedral Worth It?

For me, yes.

The extraordinary marble floor, lavish interior, history of the Knights of St John and the chance to see Caravaggio’s The Beheading of St John the Baptist made St John’s Co-Cathedral well worth visiting.

If you’re interested in art, architecture or Maltese history, I think it deserves a place on your Valletta itinerary.

If your Malta budget is tight and €15 means missing something you’re much more excited about, I wouldn’t tell you that you have to visit.

But if, like me, you’re standing outside wondering whether it can possibly be worth paying to go in, my answer is yes.

And if the Belfry and Clock Tower Tour is available, I’d pay the extra €5 for that too. Seeing the cathedral from above was one of the highlights of my visit..

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