Crossing the Nullarbor

It’s one of Australia’s iconic road trips, but crossing the Nullarbor can feel a little daunting. There are huge distances, long stretches of empty road and plenty of things to think about before you set off.

It took me a long time to finally drive across the Nullarbor. I’d always thought it would be too far and, if I’m being completely honest, a little boring.

I was wrong.

I’ve now driven across the Nullarbor in both directions, and I’ve also travelled part of the route again from Ceduna to the Nullarbor Roadhouse and back to see the whales at Head of the Bight.

Yes, it’s a long drive. But it is far from boring.

There are towering sea cliffs, wildlife, quirky roadhouses, ridiculously long straight roads and some wonderfully odd attractions along the way. More than anything, though, crossing the Nullarbor gives you a real sense of just how vast Australia is.

In this guide, I’ll share what I’ve learned from my own trips, including where to stop, what to see, where to stay and the practical things you need to know before driving across the Nullarbor.

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What and Where is the Nullarbor Plain

The Nullarbor Plain is a vast, mostly treeless region stretching across southern South Australia and Western Australia.

The name Nullarbor comes from the Latin words nullus arbor, meaning “no tree” – although that doesn’t mean there are literally no trees here. Much of the landscape is covered in low saltbush and bluebush.

The Nullarbor is also one of the world’s largest limestone karst landscapes. Beneath that seemingly endless flat landscape are caves, sinkholes and underground passages.

For travellers, though, “crossing the Nullarbor” generally means driving the Eyre Highway between Ceduna in South Australia and Norseman in Western Australia – a distance of roughly 1,200 km.

It’s remote, but it certainly isn’t empty. Keep an eye out for kangaroos, emus, wombats, dingoes, wedge-tailed eagles and maybe even camels along the way.

Driving Across the Nullarbor

Map of the Nullarbor Plain

Most people won’t drive the Nullarbor as a trip on its own. It’s more likely to be part of a much longer Australian road trip – perhaps Melbourne to Perth, Adelaide to Perth or, as we did, Adelaide to Esperance.

I’m describing the journey from east to west because that’s the direction we first travelled, but there’s no particular reason you need to cross the Nullarbor that way.

How Long Does it Take to Cross the Nullarbor?

I recommend allowing at least two days to drive between Ceduna and Norseman.

Yes, you could technically cover the distance in one extremely long day, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Not only would it be exhausting, you would drive straight past most of the things that make crossing the Nullarbor interesting.

Three or four days is even better if you have the time. That gives you the chance to stop at the lookouts, explore around some of the roadhouses and enjoy the experience rather than treating the Nullarbor as 1,200 km that simply needs to be endured.

What is the Road Like?

The Eyre Highway is sealed all the way between Ceduna and Norseman, so you don’t need a 4WD simply to cross the Nullarbor.

For much of the journey it is a two-lane highway, with one lane in each direction, although there are some overtaking lanes.

You’ll share the road with caravans, campervans, trucks and road trains, so be patient when overtaking and make sure you have plenty of clear road ahead.

One of the most famous sections is the 90 Mile Straight, between Caiguna and Balladonia in Western Australia. Despite the old-fashioned name, it is actually 146.6 km of road without a bend.

And yes, you really do need to stop for the obligatory photo with the sign!

Another Nullarbor curiosity is the sections of highway that double as emergency airstrips for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. You’ll know when you reach one because the road markings and signs suddenly look more like something you’d expect to see at an airport.

Wildlife is another consideration, particularly around dawn and dusk.

We’ve also seen huge wedge-tailed eagles feeding on roadkill, as well as livestock beside the highway.

And then there are the oversize loads.

On one of our crossings we came across several enormous wide loads, including mining trucks so wide they took up both lanes. All the oncoming traffic had to pull completely off the road while they passed.

It’s another reminder that this might be Highway One, but driving out here is very different from driving on a highway near one of Australia’s cities.

Safety Across the Nullarbor

Crossing the Nullarbor isn’t particularly difficult, but it is remote, and you need to be prepared.

Before leaving Ceduna or Norseman, make sure your vehicle is in good condition and that you have a usable spare tyre, jack and the basic equipment you would need if something went wrong.

Carry plenty of drinking water and some extra food. It’s also a good idea to let someone know your plans and roughly when you expect to reach your next destination.

Don’t rely on your mobile phone either. There are long stretches where you may have no reception at all.

If you break down, stay with your vehicle rather than walking off looking for help.

I also recommend doing your driving during daylight hours wherever possible. Kangaroos, wombats and other wildlife are more active around dawn and dusk, and hitting a large animal at highway speed could quickly bring your road trip to an unpleasant end.

Fatigue is another risk. Take regular breaks, swap drivers if you can and don’t try to cover more kilometres than you comfortably can in a day.

This is one road trip where being prepared – and not being in a hurry – makes a big difference.

Roadhouses on the Nullarbor Plain

Once you leave the towns at either end of the Nullarbor, the roadhouses become your lifeline.

This is where you’ll stop for fuel, toilets, food and, depending on the roadhouse, accommodation or a campsite for the night.

Don’t expect anything fancy. These are remote outposts providing essential services in one of the most isolated parts of Australia.

Most have a shop selling drinks, snacks and basic supplies, along with somewhere to get a meal. Many also have motel-style accommodation and caravan or camping facilities.

And expect things to cost more than they would in Adelaide or Perth. Fuel in particular can be considerably more expensive.

We carried plenty of drinking water and some of our own food rather than relying entirely on what we could buy along the way.

If you have dietary requirements, I recommend doing the same. On our first crossing, I was eating plant-based and discovered just how limited the choices could be. Even my usual fallback of hot chips wasn’t always available!

Nullarbor Roadhouses from East to West

After leaving Ceduna you’ll pass through Penong before reaching the more remote section of the drive.

Travelling east to west, the main fuel stops along the Eyre Highway are:

• Nundroo
• Yalata
• Nullarbor Roadhouse
• Border Village
• Eucla
• Mundrabilla
• Madura
• Cocklebiddy
• Caiguna
• Balladonia

Fuel stops are generally close enough together that you don’t need to carry huge amounts of spare fuel in a normal vehicle simply to drive the Eyre Highway.

That said, I wouldn’t push my luck with the fuel gauge out here. We tend to fill up regularly rather than assuming we’ll make it to a particular roadhouse.

Opening hours and services can change, so if you’re relying on a particular stop for fuel, accommodation or food, check ahead.

Best Overnight Stops on the Nullarbor

I’ve stayed overnight at three of the roadhouses along the Nullarbor – Nullarbor Roadhouse, Cocklebiddy and Eucla.

Each time we were camping in a tent during winter, and all three did the job perfectly well. I’d happily stay at any of them again.

But if I had to choose a favourite of the three, it would be Eucla.

Staying at Eucla

Eucla is just over the border in Western Australia and makes a convenient overnight stop if the distances work with your itinerary.

One thing I particularly liked about camping here was the trees. After so much open landscape, having some shelter around the campground was very welcome!

When we stayed, there was plenty of room, with both powered and unpowered sites available.

The bathrooms were dated but clean and well maintained, and there were hot showers – very welcome after a long day on the road. Other facilities included a laundry, BBQ area and basic camp kitchen.

There’s also a restaurant and bar at the roadhouse, and motel accommodation if camping isn’t your thing.

Other Places to Stay on the Nullarbor

There is accommodation at various roadhouses along the route, ranging from motel rooms to caravan parks and camping.

Border Village is another option very close to Eucla, but on the South Australian side of the border.

If you need a motel room rather than a campsite, I’d recommend booking ahead. Your next alternative could be a considerable distance down the highway.

And one important warning: don’t camp along the Bunda Cliffs. The cliff edges are unstable and camping there is prohibited. Stick to designated camping areas and roadside rest stops where camping is permitted.

Quarantine When Crossing the Nullarbor

One thing you need to plan for when crossing the Nullarbor is quarantine.

Both Western Australia and South Australia have restrictions on what food, plants and plant products you can bring across their borders, but the rules are different depending on which direction you’re travelling.

If you’re heading west into Western Australia, you’ll go through the quarantine checkpoint at Border Village.

Fresh fruit and vegetables are generally restricted, although there are exceptions, and there are also rules covering things such as honey, nuts, seeds and plant material.

Travelling east into South Australia, the quarantine checkpoint is on the Eyre Highway at Ceduna.

The simplest advice is don’t stock up on lots of fresh produce immediately before crossing the border.

Before your trip, check the current quarantine rules for the state you’re entering. They can change, so don’t rely on an old list – including one in a travel blog.

If you’re unsure whether something you’re carrying is permitted, declare it and ask.

That’s exactly what I did with some commercially packaged nuts on one of our crossings. Mine were fine – although I was told that raw walnuts still in their shells weren’t allowed.

Our vehicle was inspected too. The officers checked our fridge and looked through our food supplies, so don’t assume quarantine is simply a matter of being asked a couple of questions at the window.

Things to Do on the Nullarbor

It can be tempting to think crossing the Nullarbor is simply about getting from one side to the other, but there are quite a few things worth stopping for along the way.

You probably won’t do them all on one trip, but these are some of the attractions and experiences you can choose from.

Play a round of golf

Yes, really!

The Nullarbor Links is the world’s longest golf course, stretching 1,365 km between Ceduna and Kalgoorlie.

Rather than playing 18 holes in one location, you’ll find individual holes at towns and roadhouses along the route. Play your hole, get your scorecard stamped and then drive on to the next one.

Scorecards and club hire are available from the visitor centres in Ceduna, Norseman and Kalgoorlie.

Even if you’re not a serious golfer, it’s certainly a different way to break up those long driving days.

Explore Penong attractions

Before you get into the really remote part of the drive, allow a little time for Penong.

One of its quirkiest attractions is the Penong Windmill Museum, where you’ll find a collection of windmills including the enormous Comet.

You can also detour from Penong to Lake MacDonnell, famous for the pink colour it can sometimes display, or continue towards the coast to Cactus Beach, one of Australia’s best-known remote surfing spots.

Just remember that pink lakes don’t always look pink. Conditions, water levels and even the time of day can affect what you see.

Go whale watching

If you’re crossing the Nullarbor during winter or early spring, this could be one of the highlights of the entire drive.

Southern right whales come to the waters of the Great Australian Bight to mate, give birth and raise their calves before returning south.

The best-known place to see them is the Head of the Bight, where boardwalks lead to viewing platforms overlooking the ocean and the spectacular Bunda Cliffs.

I’ve actually driven back out here from Ceduna on a separate trip specifically to see the whales, and it’s worth the journey.

The official whale-watching season runs from 1 June to 30 October, depending on the arrival and departure of the whales.

Another option is to detour to Fowlers Bay, where whale-watching cruises operate during the season.

If seeing whales is important to you, check the latest sightings before you go rather than assuming they’ll be there simply because you’re travelling during winter.

See some “Big Things”

It wouldn’t be an Australian road trip without a few Big Things along the way.

Stop at the Scotdesco Aboriginal Community, about 100 km west of Ceduna, to see the Big Wombat.

Then, when you reach the South Australia-Western Australia border, look out for Rooey II, the giant red kangaroo at Border Village.

And if you’re counting Ceduna as the beginning or end of your Nullarbor crossing, there’s another one there – the Big Oyster.

Admire the Bunda Cliffs

One of the most spectacular parts of crossing the Nullarbor is seeing the Bunda Cliffs dropping dramatically into the Southern Ocean.

Head of the Bight gives you your first great view, and further west there are three designated Bunda Cliffs lookouts signposted from the Eyre Highway.

Stick to these official lookouts.

The cliff edges are unstable and can be undercut, with collapses occurring without warning. Tracks along the cliffs are closed to the public and some have disappeared completely due to cliff collapse.

Don’t follow an old map, blog post or random track towards the coast.

The official lookouts give you fantastic views without taking unnecessary risks.

Stop for the Nullarbor Road Signs

You’re probably only going to cross the Nullarbor a handful of times in your life, so embrace the tourist photos!

There are plenty of iconic signs along the way, including the start of the Nullarbor Plain, the 90 Mile Straight and the state border.

And keep an eye out for the famous wildlife warning signs featuring a camel, wombat and kangaroo.

Yes, they’re cheesy photos.

Take them anyway.

Explore Eucla attractions

If you’re staying overnight at Eucla, allow some extra time to explore rather than immediately getting back on the highway the next morning.

The highlight is the ruins of the Old Eucla Telegraph Station, which dates back to the days when the telegraph connected Western Australia with the rest of the country.

Today, shifting sand dunes are slowly swallowing the ruins, making this one of the more unusual historic sites you’ll see on your Nullarbor road trip.

You can also explore the surrounding area, including the old jetty and beach, and take in the views from Eucla Pass.

Even if you’re not staying overnight, Eucla is worth more than a quick fuel stop.

See the Murrawijinie Caves

There is much more to the Nullarbor than you can see from the highway. Beneath the plain is an enormous network of caves and underground passages.

But that doesn’t mean you can simply head off and explore them.

Many Nullarbor caves are remote, dangerous, culturally significant or closed to the general public.

The Murrawijinie Caves, near Nullarbor Roadhouse, are the only caves within South Australia’s Nullarbor parks currently accessible to the general public.

They’re reached along an unsealed track north of the roadhouse, so check current road conditions before setting out and make sure the track is suitable for your vehicle.

This isn’t a developed tourist cave experience with lights, stairs and guided tours. Take appropriate footwear, water and a torch, and don’t venture further than you’re comfortable with.

Other caves across the Nullarbor may be closed, restricted or require special permission, so don’t rely on old information telling you they’re open to visitors.

Stop at the Caiguna Blowhole

For another glimpse of what’s happening underneath the Nullarbor, stop at the Caiguna Blowhole.

It doesn’t blow water like a coastal blowhole. Instead, changes in atmospheric pressure can cause air to rush in or out through the opening from the underground cave system.

You may not notice much happening when you visit – it depends on the conditions – but it’s an interesting quick stop.

Go bird-watching at the Eyre Bird Observatory

If you’re a keen birdwatcher and travelling in a suitable 4WD, you might want to make the detour to the Eyre Bird Observatory.

Located in the Nuytsland Nature Reserve, it’s around 50 km south-east of Cocklebiddy and is based in a heritage-listed telegraph station.

But this isn’t a quick stop just off the Eyre Highway.

The final 13 km to the observatory is suitable only for high-clearance 4WD vehicles. Motorhomes, caravans, trailers and low-clearance vehicles cannot be driven all the way in.

Accommodation is available, but must be booked ahead. Day visitors need their own suitable 4WD.

Check the latest access conditions with the Eyre Bird Observatory before leaving the highway.

The Legend of the Nullarbor Nymph

The Legend of the Nullarbor Nymph

And then there’s the Nullarbor Nymph.

In the early 1970s, stories began circulating about a scantily clad young woman supposedly living wild among the kangaroos on the Nullarbor.

The story attracted attention around Australia and overseas before eventually being revealed as a hoax.

But that hasn’t stopped the Nullarbor Nymph becoming part of local folklore.

Ask about her as you travel through the area and you may hear a few versions of the story.

And if you happen to spot a mysterious woman running through the scrub with the kangaroos…

Well, now you’ll know who she’s supposed to be.

Driving the Nullarbor FAQs

What is the best time of year to cross the Nullarbor?

You can cross the Nullarbor at any time of year, but I’d choose the cooler months if you have the flexibility.

Summer can be extremely hot, which isn’t much fun if you have car trouble or want to spend time exploring.

Winter brings cooler driving conditions and the bonus of potentially seeing southern right whales at Head of the Bight.

The downside is shorter daylight hours, which matters when you’re trying to avoid driving around dawn and dusk.

We have crossed during the cooler months and I’d happily do it that way again.

Is there phone coverage on the Nullarbor?

Don’t expect continuous mobile coverage across the Nullarbor.

When we crossed in May 2023, we travelled with one phone on the Telstra network and another on the Optus network.

Our Telstra phone had reception at the roadhouses along the way, although the strength varied, while our Optus phone had no reception between Ceduna and Norseman.

That was our experience in 2023, not a guarantee of current coverage. Mobile networks change, so check your provider’s current coverage map before leaving and be prepared for long stretches without a signal.

We also noticed travellers using Starlink. That may be worth considering if you’re spending an extended period travelling through remote Australia and need internet access, but it’s probably overkill just for a few days crossing the Nullarbor.

What is the speed limit on the Nullarbor?

The maximum speed limit along much of the Eyre Highway across the Nullarbor is 110 km/h, but always follow the posted speed limits.

And remember, 110 km/h is a maximum, not a target.

Road conditions, weather, traffic, wildlife, caravans and oversize vehicles can all mean you’ll need to travel more slowly.

How many time zones are there on the Nullarbor?

This is where things get interesting!

South Australia and Western Australia are in different official time zones, but communities around the border also use an unofficial time zone known as Central Western Time, often called Eucla Time.

It is 45 minutes ahead of Western Australian time and 45 minutes behind South Australian standard time.

It becomes even more confusing during daylight saving because South Australia changes its clocks and Western Australia doesn’t. During that period, Eucla Time is 1 hour 45 minutes behind South Australia.

Don’t rely entirely on your phone changing automatically. Check the local time when you stop at the roadhouses – particularly if you need to arrive before the kitchen, fuel station or reception closes.

What is the distance between fuel stops on the Nullarbor?

Fuel is available regularly enough along the Eyre Highway that you don’t need to carry huge amounts of spare fuel in a normal vehicle simply to cross the Nullarbor.

But the distances are still significant.

My approach is simple: don’t let the tank get unnecessarily low.

Fill up before leaving Ceduna or Norseman and top up along the way when it makes sense rather than trying to save a few dollars by stretching your fuel to the next roadhouse.

Remember that opening hours and fuel availability can change, so check current conditions before setting out.

Is Crossing the Nullarbor Worth It?

Before I first crossed the Nullarbor, I thought it would be hours and hours of driving through not very much at all.

I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Yes, there are some very long stretches of road, but that’s also part of the experience. The huge skies, the changing landscape, the quirky roadhouses, the wildlife and those seemingly endless views are unlike anywhere else I’ve driven in Australia.

Then there are all the stops along the way – the Bunda Cliffs, Head of the Bight, Eucla, the 90 Mile Straight and plenty of odd little things that give you an excuse to pull over and stretch your legs.

I’ve now crossed the Nullarbor in both directions and even driven part of it again specifically to see the whales at Head of the Bight.

So much for thinking I’d find it boring!

Give yourself enough time, don’t try to drive ridiculous distances each day and enjoy the journey.

Crossing the Nullarbor isn’t just a way to get from South Australia to Western Australia. It’s one of those great Australian road trips that’s worth doing at least once.

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