For my 45th birthday, I decided to go climbing Mount Kinabalu. As you do.
Simon and I were partway through our adult gap year, and our youngest daughter, MacKenzie, was joining us in Malaysia. Climbing Mount Kinabalu had been on my wish list for years, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity.
I’m much more interested in experiences than things, and I wanted a birthday I would remember. I certainly got that.
Over two days, I climbed uneven steps, scrambled over rocks and discovered that getting down a mountain can be even harder than getting up it.
There was also a birthday cake near the summit, encouragement from strangers and the satisfaction of doing something I hadn’t been entirely sure I could manage.
I wasn’t an experienced mountain climber. My usual challenge back home in Adelaide was the walk up Mount Lofty, which suddenly seemed very tame.
This is the story of my Mount Kinabalu climb in 2018, along with what I learnt and what I would do differently.
This article may contain affiliate links. This means that if you make a purchase after clicking on a link, I may receive a small commission. Read the full disclaimer here.
How I Ended Up Booking a Mountain Climb
The idea first came up five or six years before we actually did it.
I was planning a holiday but didn’t know how much time I could get off work. While I waited, I planned three options: Vietnam if I got three weeks, Borneo if I got two, and Hong Kong if I only got one.
Climbing Mount Kinabalu was part of the Borneo plan. I ended up getting three weeks, so we went to Vietnam and the mountain stayed on my wish list.
Years later, while travelling on our gap year, we were discussing where MacKenzie could join us. We settled on Malaysia, and she would be there for my birthday.
That was all the encouragement I needed. Before I could talk myself out of it, I booked the climb.
And I probably would have talked myself out of it.
About a month beforehand, I made the final payment and started reading more accounts from other climbers. There were stories about exhaustion, altitude sickness, freezing temperatures and miserable rain. Some people hadn’t reached the checkpoint before the cut-off for continuing to the summit.
My first reaction was, “What have I done?”
I wasn’t a couch potato. Before our gap year, I had completed a half marathon and a 35km walk. But ten months of travelling hadn’t given me a structured training routine.
My main uphill challenge had been the walk from Waterfall Gully to Mount Lofty. I always found that hard enough, with its steep sections and inevitable sore legs afterwards.
Kinabalu was going to be very different: uneven steps, tree roots and rocks, followed by exposed granite near the summit.
I was nervous, but I still wanted to see whether I could do it.
Day One: The Climb to Panalaban
On the morning of our climb, we were picked up from our hotel in Kota Kinabalu and driven to Kinabalu Park headquarters. I had butterflies in my stomach the whole way.
We filled in the paperwork, stored our main luggage, met our guides and hired a hiking pole each.
At first, I wondered whether the pole would be more of a nuisance than a help. By the second day, I was very glad I had it.
Then it was back into the van for the short trip to Timpohon Gate, where our walk began.
We started cheerfully, passing the 500-metre marker and then the one-kilometre sign. Those markers became important as the day went on. Every one meant a little more of the climb was behind us.
By the first kilometre, I was already puffing.
The track was a mixture of uneven stone steps, tree roots, wooden stairs and sections where we picked our way over rocks. There seemed to be very little opportunity to recover before the next uphill stretch.
It had been cool when we started, but we soon warmed up, peeled off layers and reached for the sunscreen.
We stopped regularly at the shelters beside the trail. At the four-kilometre mark, we took a longer break for our packed lunch, and our guides checked how everyone was feeling.
I had read enough about altitude sickness to be paying attention to every ache and unusual sensation. Apart from tired legs, though, I felt okay.
After lunch, Simon and MacKenzie moved ahead while I settled into my own slower pace.
From here, it became a matter of putting one foot in front of the other. I knew there was still summit morning to come, so I tried not to use up everything I had.
Meanwhile, porters kept passing me with enormous loads strapped to their backs. Watching them negotiate the same steps I was struggling with gave me a whole new appreciation for the work involved in supplying the mountain accommodation.
Eventually, I rounded a bend and spotted a building ahead. I could have cheered. We were nearly at Panalaban, our overnight stop.
Simon and MacKenzie were waiting, and we walked the last stretch together. It took me a moment to notice that neither was carrying a backpack.
MacKenzie had raced ahead, checked us into our room and dropped off her gear before Simon had even arrived.
Oh, to be young and fit.
For now, I had made it. There was time to rest before tackling the next part in the dark.
A Short Night at Panalaban
Our accommodation was a basic bunkhouse. We shared a four-person room with a climber from Austria, and the bathrooms were communal.
I couldn’t get any hot water, so I settled for washing my hands and face. A cold shower wasn’t tempting, and I didn’t hear anyone else volunteering for one either.
At that point, I was far more concerned about my legs than how I smelt.
We had a few hours before bed. All I wanted to do was sit still, but I ventured outside a couple of times for a short wander to keep my legs moving.
It was cold, and we were above the clouds. As sunset approached, we could see across the mountains towards the sea. After spending so much of the day concentrating on my feet, it was lovely to stop and enjoy the view.
By eight o’clock, all four of us were tucked up in bed. Our alarm was set for 2 am.
Unfortunately, some of the other guests had decided to stay up. Sound travelled remarkably well through the wooden building, and there was plenty of talking and thumping around.
Our guide wasn’t impressed either. The guides’ rooms were directly below the common room, so they had heard it all too.
The earplugs I had left in my main backpack at park headquarters would have been very useful.
When the alarm went off, we pulled on our layers and went for the meal they called “supper”.
I could barely eat. My body wasn’t interested in food at two in the morning, and my nerves didn’t help.
Then it was time to put on my headlamp and head outside.
It was officially my birthday. The celebrations would have to wait.
Summit Morning: A Birthday Above the Clouds
Walking by headlamp felt strange at first. I could see the patch of track in front of me, but it took a while to get comfortable moving through the dark.
Our guide initially wanted us to stay together. It soon became clear, though, that Simon and MacKenzie were moving much more easily than I was, and he let them go ahead.
I was feeling the previous day’s climb, the lack of sleep and the fact that I hadn’t eaten much.
I settled into my own pace. My immediate goal was to reach the checkpoint before the cut-off for continuing towards the summit.
On our climb, that cut-off was 5 am. I arrived at 4:30 am, with half an hour to spare, and felt ridiculously pleased with myself.
There was still more climbing to do, but getting through that checkpoint felt like a small victory.
Higher up, the trees gave way to exposed granite. In places, we used fixed ropes to help us up the slopes, while the guides moved beside us, carrying poles and offering encouragement.
Other climbers called out, “Keep going!” I appreciated it, although most of my attention was on getting my feet to do what I wanted.
Near the final section, my guide offered an alternative. We could watch the sunrise from a nearby ridge rather than climb the last stretch to Low’s Peak.
I still wanted to try.
The final scramble took me over large rocks, sometimes using both my hands and feet. Along the way, I met Simon and MacKenzie coming down. They had reached the top, but it was too cold to wait there for me, and there wasn’t much room.
We agreed to meet farther down, and I kept going.
Eventually, I reached the summit area. Climbers were crowded around the sign on the highest rocks, and I stopped within a few metres of it, sinking onto a rock out of the freezing wind.
I had made it.
The sun was already up, so I hadn’t caught sunrise from the top. I had watched the colours appear as I climbed, though, and the view above the clouds was still wonderful.
Then my guide came over with a surprise.
Another climber was also celebrating a birthday, and between the guides, a cake had appeared. Soon we were posing for photos while the people around us joined in the celebrations.
As we made our way down later, strangers wished me a happy birthday along the trail.
I had wanted a memorable way to turn 45. Sitting near the top of Mount Kinabalu with a birthday cake was going to be hard to beat.
Getting Down Was the Hardest Part
Before the climb, I had been told that getting down could be harder than getting up. I hadn’t quite believed it.
I did now.
The first stretch back towards Panalaban was steep and exposed, and my knees felt every step. Reaching the top had been a huge achievement, but there was still a long way to go.
I met up with Simon and MacKenzie, and we continued together. It was then that I discovered MacKenzie’s phone battery had gone flat in the cold.
She hadn’t taken any photos of the sunrise.
I had hardly taken any either, partly because I had asked her to do it. We would have to make do with our few photos, our memories and, eventually, our certificates.
Back at Panalaban, we had a little over an hour to eat breakfast, collect our belongings and check out.
We also heard how some of the other climbers had fared. Our Austrian roommate, who had moved quickly past us earlier, had become unwell. Simon had seen him vomiting beside the trail.
He had seemed so fit and confident when we met him. Hearing what had happened brought home how differently people could experience the same climb at altitude.
Then it was time to tackle the rest of the descent.
For the first kilometre or two, we took our time, chatting to people coming up and giving our legs frequent breaks. Eventually, we realised that at this pace, we would be on the mountain for a very long time.
We needed to keep moving.
This was the part I enjoyed least. Every uneven step demanded more from legs that felt thoroughly finished.
My hiking pole had become one of my favourite possessions.
Finally, Timpohon Gate was ahead. Between me and the end were about twenty steps leading upwards.
Upwards. After all that.
It took what felt like the last of my energy to climb them and get into the van.
I knew I was going to be sore for days, but even through the grimacing, I couldn’t stop smiling.
What I Would Do Differently
I’m glad I climbed Mount Kinabalu, but I would prepare differently if I were doing it again.
Train for the Steps and the Descent
Being able to walk plenty of kilometres hadn’t prepared me for hours of uneven steps, followed by a descent on exhausted legs.
I would spend more time walking hills and stairs, including downhill sections, and practise carrying my hiking backpack.
Pack Snacks I Want to Eat
I carried snacks but didn’t eat enough of them. Between the nerves, tiredness and unusual meal times, I often didn’t feel like food.
I would take familiar snacks that were easy to eat during a short break and pay more attention to eating regularly.
Keep My Backpack Light
Every extra item felt heavier as the climb went on.
I would be more deliberate about what I packed, while still taking the clothing and equipment I needed. If carrying a bag was a concern, I would ask about hiring a porter.
Investigate an Extra Night on the Mountain
During the descent, I wished we could have stayed another night at Panalaban after the summit climb, then walked down the following day.
Amazing Borneo now lists a three-day, two-night package with both nights at Panalaban. That is the kind of itinerary I would investigate.
Read the details carefully, though. Other three-day packages include a night near park headquarters before the climb, rather than an extra night on the mountain.
Allow Time to Recover
My legs were sore for days. I would leave time for rest and gentle sightseeing afterwards.
A comfortable bed and very few stairs would have been high on my wish list.
Booking My Mount Kinabalu Climb
I booked our two-day, one-night climb with Amazing Borneo, choosing a package with transfers from Kota Kinabalu.
Our package included transport, climbing permits, a guide for our group, accommodation at Panalaban and meals.
Their communication before the climb was clear and helpful. They explained what we needed to bring and how the two days would work, which settled some of my nerves.
Our mountain guide, Joe, was a highlight.
As the slowest person in our group, I spent plenty of time with him. He was patient and encouraging, and I never felt pressured to move faster than I could manage.
I paid for our climb myself and had no sponsored or affiliate relationship with Amazing Borneo. This recommendation is based on our experience in 2018.
For a future climb, check the current accommodation, itinerary and inclusions rather than assuming they will match ours.
What to Pack for Mount Kinabalu
We experienced very different conditions over two days.
On the lower trail, I removed layers and put on sunscreen. Near the summit, it was freezing and windy.
We were lucky not to have rain. Climbers coming down as we went up told us they had spent the previous day walking in a downpour.
These are the items I was particularly glad to have, or wished I’d kept with me:
- Warm layers, a beanie and gloves for the early morning climb.
- Waterproof clothing and protection for the contents of my backpack.
- A headlamp, with spare batteries, for walking and scrambling before dawn.
- Comfortable footwear with good grip.
- A hiking pole, especially for the descent.
- Water and familiar snacks within easy reach.
- Sunscreen.
- Earplugs for the shared accommodation.
- A power bank for the phone.
I would also keep my phone close to my body in the cold.
Use your operator’s current checklist for a complete packing list. Amazing Borneo’s suggested equipment is a useful starting point.
Everythi